For something a little out of the ordinary, L'Artichaut provides the rare combination of vegetarian French cooking. Vegetarian menus often opt for predictably wholesome, hearty type fare or something extra spicy, so it's a treat to come across this alternative.
For our evening meal starters, my dining companion and I tried the roasted pepper, guacamole verrine, which turned out to be a parfait glass filled with colourful layers of complementary cold selections absolutely bursting with flavour. With the natural sweetness of the vegetables and the apple remoulade, it was almost like starting with dessert, and it left our tastebuds primed for the main course.
You recognize a good cook when you've been won over to love a flavour you'd previously loathed. I opted for the fennel-stuffed courgette as my main course, and turned out to be pleasantly surprised by its very delicate hint of a spice I'd assiduously avoided in the past. The fennel and courgette were perfectly cooked: tender but not overdone, and the whole dish was subtle and succulent in the mouth.
For dessert, our baked pineapple was not entirely successful, lingering between fresh and cooked, but the accompanying currant sorbet was exceptional - tart and intense.
While my companion was less-than-impressed with the understated ambiance of the establishment, I quite enjoyed its relaxed, low-key environment which let us enjoy our meal in peace and comfort. Another standout for me were the beautifully crafted wood tables and chairs, art in themselves, which had me running my hands over the furniture in tactile delight before our meal even began.
At a very reasonable £15 for 2 course evening meal, £19.50 for 3 courses, L'Artichaut is well worth another visit.